Lingerie making: a new love?

One of my sewing objectives for the year was to make lingerie. I started by using leftover knit fabric to make panties, drafting my underwear block using LizSews youtube tutorial. But the more I was looking into lingerie making, the more I got curious about trying something different. Sewing with lace, trying all the different types of elastic, and just making something nice that I would happily buy in a shop.

My sources of inspiration and information were mainly youtube and instagram. I highly recommend LizSews youtube channel, and Eclipse lingerie studio instagram pages. In addition to these, if you speak french, Alexia from Chut la Sorcière Coud on youtube, recently made a video all about free sewing patterns for lingerie. Her video was the final push for me to try, but I was still unsure of which pattern to try first. Trust me, there are a LOT of free options. Then last week La Maison Victor offered two free patterns made in collaboration with Fitiyoo (a french lingerie pattern designer): Kiwiki (a lace bralette) and Paya (lace briefs – shorty). It is still possible to download the two patterns on the website after registering for free. And that’s what I decided to make! Kiwiki is a lace bralette available in sizes XS-L (bust 29 1/8”-40 1/2”), Paya is a lace brief without side seams, but with a center front and center back seam. It’s available in sizes XS- XL (hips 32 1/4” – 45 5/8”).

A couple of month ago I bought some lingerie supplies from BraBuilders (highly recommended) and I had just enough to make this set. I decided not to make a toile, because I didn’t really have stretch fabric, and I was too excited to try! Also, the lace is not that expensive, and I wanted to use the right material to learn how to sew it. I ordered everything from BraBuilder because the website is very easy to navigate and it is possible to choose all the notions in the same color. I went for Rain (a spring limited edition). Here’s what I needed:

  • stretch lace with scalloped edges (mine was 8 1/4” x 2 yards)
  • bra straps elastic and fasteners (rings and sliders)
  • wide elastic for the band
  • hook and eye for the back band
  • picot elastic for the waistband of the underwear
  • plastic transparent elastic (laminette in french). I bought mine thinking I could use it for swimwear (you need a rubber “white” elastic, not the transparent one!), so I had a lot leftover, and I used it to stabilise the sides of the cups

Both patterns were very easy to make! Quick to print and put together and with very clear instructions (both in french and english). I made some tests in some scrap fabric for the stitches length, and in one morning i was able to make both! And they both fit 🙂 I made a size M cup and L band for the bralette and M for the briefs (my measures are in my bio). Since I still had some leftover lace I decided to make another bottom for this set, using some cotton jersey in a color that was matching pretty well. I had a small scrap from a previous T-Shirt project. This second pair is made using the underwear block that I drafter following LizSews youtube videos, and they fit very well.

And here’s my first lingerie set!! I’m so happy with the result, and I had SO MUCH FUN making it that now I really want to try more! I will make the bralette again I think, probably adding 1” in length to the elastic band. I’m very pleased with the shape of the Paya panty, since there’s not elastic on the leg opening, making it quite comfortable. However I’m not sure I’ll make another pair all in lace, because it’s a little bit scratchy.

You’ll see more underwear in the future for sure! And if you never tried I highly recommend it 🙂

Cost

As usual, here’s a cost breakdown:

  • Bralette Kiwiki: fabric (1/2 yard – $2.5), notions (all the elastics and fasteners – $5.5) = $8, free pattern
  • Paya underwear: fabric (1 1/2 yard – $7.5), elastic ($2) = $9.5, free pattern
  • Self drafted panty: leftover fabric, elastic ($2)

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