This was a little bit of an impulse sewing project, usually I have a sewing list that I update every time I have a new idea, but I wanted to spend some time making my ideal tailored pants. I bought the Sasha trousers pattern when Closet Core Patterns had their sales last winter, but ended up not making it because I couldn’t find a stretch fabric that I liked, and I wasn’t convinced about the mid rise.
The pattern and fitting
The Sasha trousers are a classic tailored fit pants with mid rise, optional welt pockets on the back and optional hip pockets on the front. The pattern calls for a 2-way stretch woven fabrics with at least 20% crosswise stretch, for an easier fit and extra comfort.
My ideal pair of pants was instead high waisted and drafted for a non stretch woven, mainly because I liked the idea of making it in wool for winter and linen for summer. So I decided to hack the pattern. My measures put me in a size 8-10, but I cut a size 12 to have some more room needed for a non stretch woven fabric. Then I added 2″ to the rise before making my muslin. Instead of adding to the lengthen-shorten line I simply extended further the top of the existing pattern. I proceeded in this way because I wanted to keep the same fit up to the existing mid rise and taper it towards the waist line (see pictures below). For this version I omitted the front pockets, but made the welt pockets on the back. I also changed the closure by using the waistband pattern piece for size 12, and since it was longer than the actual waist measure, I extended it.
I added 2″ to the following pieces: A (front leg), B (back leg) and prolonged the darts, D (fly shield), J (pocket) only to the bottom side, M (interfacing), N (fly topstitch guide). For the version with front pockets, all the pocket pieces would need the same addition.
At this point I was ready to make a toile, and honestly I was ready for an extensive fitting process, but instead a sewing miracle happened, they were basically perfect!! I made a toile with some old bedding, cutting the front and back leg, leaving an opening on the side, so without worrying about the fly closure. Below my toile (sorry for the black underwear, but that’s real life :)). The only adjustment that I made was taking out 2cm (3/4”) on the back center seam.
Final result and cost
I made my final version in a rust wool crepe (100% wool) purchased on Fabric Mart when I bought the coat wool. I had 2 yards, but only used 58” long (and I could have made them in 1.5 yard probably) of 57” wide fabric. For the pockets I used some leftover cotton voile from my stash, and a beige zipper (my only regret, because you can see it a bit).
Here’s the cost breakdown (total ca. $45 including the cost of the pattern):
- Fabric: $30
- Pattern: $12 (bought it during the Thanksgiving sales)
- Notions: buttons from my grandma’s stash, zipper ($0.70) and thread ($2)